Thursday, February 18, 2016

Response to questions from students at Lake Forest High School in Illinois


For this post, I will actually respond to a series of letters sent to me from students in a high school in the United States that I correspond with. I have decided to include my responses to their questions on my blog here because I figured this is an opportunity for those of you back in the States to learn some new information about Morocco based on the wide diversity of questions asked of me by these students.

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Dear Modern Issues Students at Lake Forest High School,

I hope 2016 is off to a wonderful start for all of you. Your letters brought more joy to me than you all ever could have imagined. This is one the most considerate Christmas gifts I have ever received, even though I read through them on February 16. I do apologize for the late response. Another Peace Corps Volunteer and I share a post office box here in our town and so I did not get your present until a couple of weeks ago and there were a few tasks that stood in the way of me reading your letters and taking the necessary time to respond to them. I have tried my very best here to respond to every question I found (sometimes lumping similar ones together into a single response), please forgive me for any accidental omissions.




Without further to do, let's get to it!

Students Daniel, Samantha and Brandon have asked me what my daily life is like in Morocco.

I hesitate to say this, but I don't think I have one. Generally, I wake up at seven and do the morning routine with breakfast and all until eight. From eight until ten, I usually study Darija or Moroccan Arabic through a variety of means such as through formal lessons or meeting with kind friends in the cafe. From ten until eleven, I will usually go through my email and task orient for the day. I exercise around eleven every day and eat lunch after that (with a shower, of course). In the afternoon, I usually take care of administrative tasks for Peace Corps (I'm always behind on at least one of them), plan for larger projects and plan my lessons for the youth center. I teach Monday-Saturday from 6:30-8:00pm at the youth center and then usually either return home to Skype family and friends or sit in the cafe with friends after for a while and visit.

Tatum asked me what the relationship is like between Morocco and Spain.

Actually, Tatum, as you probably can imagine, very complicated. When Spain was ruled by Muslims, every successive dynasty used Morocco as a launching point for their entry into Europe. Two of those ruling Islamic dynasties, the Almoravids and the Almohads, were actually Moroccan in origin and based in Marrakech, Morocco. In the early 20th century, Spain colonized the northern region of Morocco and what is referred to now as the Moroccan/Western Sahara. The current Sahara dispute can be attributed to Spanish governance of that region. Another very interesting remnant of the colonial period is a geographical anomaly. There are actually two cities inside Morocco, Ceuta and Melilla, which are not apart of Morocco. They are sovereign Spanish territory and governed by the Spanish government. Tatum, I also have been told that the Darija in northern Morocco is more Spanish-influenced than the Darija in the former French protectorate, where I live. Off the top of my head, I can tell you that the Darija words simana, cozina and lavabo all have very obvious Spanish origins (ask your Spanish teacher if you don’t know). I like your question very much--quite thoughtful!

Mary and Cami both asked me about the ways in which Morocco is different than America.

Qtira (many)--I remember being in small state of culture shock when I arrived in Sidi Kacem with my host family for our language and culture training. At the onset, things like Turkish toilets and eating with your hands can be a big adjustment to make. Also, the Moroccan conception of time really values time spent in groups over time spent alone. In addition to that, is not followed as strictly when it comes to meetings for work. In the beginning, this made getting through the day a grand adventure. After a year, Ana wlft (I got used to) life here and now I see the same things I see in America--the majority of Moroccans I know are kind people who work hard to provide for their families. The differences have faded away and it is much easier to focus on the commonalities now.

Harman, Rachel, Colson, Charlotte, Ryan, Katie, Grace, Joe and Mia are all the foodies at your school as they asked me about my favorite types of foods here.

Alright, so I named all of you because I think perhaps y'all should get together and dine at your closest Moroccan restaurant. The food here is delicious and very unique. Morocco is a very collectivist culture and so most meals are on one giant plate in the center of the table that everyone shares (the same goes for the drinking cup). The most popular Moroccan dish is couscous, which I am sure some of you have had. It's absolutely delicious and also very difficult to make. It's most commonly eaten on Fridays after the main Islamic prayer of the week (I suppose you could equate it to a traditional American Sunday brunch). Traditionally, it is eaten with your right hand (a manner of politeness) and you are supposed to be able to grasp the couscous and roll it up into an egg-shaped ball and then eat it (Most people I know, American and Moroccan, have "sold out" and just eat it with a spoon).  Another classic is the Moroccan Tajine, which is like a crock pot (I'm struggling to find the right words for this one) that can be cooked directly over a natural fire or stove. Most commonly, it is filled with vegetables, mixed spices and some form of meat. It is not eaten with utensils, but rather with bread (unless you are unable to eat bread). The spices leave behind a lot of delicious juice and so you can use the bread to both grab items and absorb the juice for maximum flavor! I also am a fan of Milwi--the Moroccan version of the tortilla, Khubz-lharr (which is Milwi stuffed with spices and also referred to as Berber pizza) and Rifisa (milwi prepared as a main dish and served as something similar to lasagna).

Joseph asked me generally about my impression of Morocco.

I would say that in my interactions with people, I find it much like America actually. I think there are good people and bad people wherever you go. I am very social and so have many opportunities to meet new friends and also discover people I would very much like to avoid (as I do in America). Good question!

Eric, Cailey, Asma and Colin asked me about the weather in Morocco.

Morocco, without the Sahara, is about the same size as California and with the Sahara is quite a bit larger. The weather really depends on the region. Costal areas have mild weather and the further one goes inland, the more extreme the weather becomes. I live in the Pre-Sahara, almost as far away from the ocean as one can go (I'm closer to Algeria) and so my region gets the most extreme of any weather current. The winters are usually as cold as they get and last summer was so hot that I tried my best to work in other regions of the country just to cool off.

Gwen, the teacher's assistant, asked me what conflict in the world interests me the most.

I really like this question although I did not expect to see it in a Christmas card! I really enjoyed studying the Arab Spring when I was in college (because that's when it began) and especially the situation in Egypt. Unfortunately, Egypt has yet to know peace since its deposition of Hosni Mubarak and I find it very interesting to study all of the forces that have polarized that country. 

Christophe asked me what the main religion in Morocco is.

It is officially 99% Sunni Muslim. I have met Moroccans with other religious views, but, as the percentage suggests, the overwhelming majority of people here are Sunni. There was once a very strong Jewish population here, but not a few political factors resulted in their emigration to Europe or Israel in the early to mid 20th century. What I also find very interesting is the diversity of views that exist within Islam here because the expression of faith definitely varies from person to person. There is also a big culture of Sufism here that I would like to learn more about.

Sean asked me if things in Morocco are getting better.

Sean, I think your question pertains to the quality of life here in general. I would say there is no shortage of challenges that Morocco must face in order to improve the quality of life for its citizens, but I think that there is a perception in the air that life is getting better. The King of Morocco is very well respected internationally and so I think that helps with foreign investment and commerce a great deal.

Katie asked me what my favorite place is that I have visited in Morocco.

Very touch question, Katie. There are a lot of amazing sites to see here. The place I love visiting the most is actually Rabat, the capital city. That is where Peace Corps' office is and I love being able to walk the streets of that city and do things like visit big bookstores, explore museums and eat in really nice restaurants. It is very clean and beautiful and so I feel more relaxed there than I do in some of the other big cities. There are many places I have yet to see though so we'll see if this answer changes over time!

Charles asked me if there are any changes in Morocco I have seen since I have been here.

I am sure change is happening all around me, Charles. However, I am a foreigner who has been here for only a year and so I am not in a good position to notice them. However, one thing I have noticed is that the government has started investing quite heavily in improving the infrastructure of our region and so I have noticed a lot of new construction projects, which is good for the economy.

John, Will and Michael asked me what the living conditions are like in Morocco.

Hey guys! Morocco is by no means a developing country, but also is not necessarily a developed country. It's definitely lodged in the middle and has characteristics of both. I have a nice apartment with electricity and Internet if that helps give you a good picture of my situation.

Pierce asked me about the kinds of conflict I resolve.

Generally speaking, I think Peace Corps tries to help correct the misunderstandings that Americans have with regards to other cultures as well as the stereotypes that citizens in countries around the world have about Americans. The development work is crucial, but so is the part of our program that tries to build better understanding between different peoples. This is where our work as volunteers helps plant seeds of peace in America and abroad.

Trevor asked me what the most fun thing I have ever done in Morocco is.

Peace Corps works with the Ministry of Youth and Sports to organize an English summer camp in El Jadida, a beach resort town, that I volunteered at last August. I remember teaching English every morning and then immediately going to play on the beach and in the ocean when my classes were over.

Amiya and Hope asked me about the activities I am involved with here.

Hi Amiya and Hope! I am not sure if you mean activities I do in the youth center or personal hobbies that I have here. I think maybe you mean the latter and so I'll tell you that I love learning and speaking in Darija with my friends and host family here. I have never spoken a foreign language to this extent before and sometimes it's a really cool feeling at the end of the day when you realized you managed to survive those 24 hours without English.

Carson, Jack, Ainsley and Rainan asked me to compare the USA and Morocco?

Great question guys! 

The thing I love about the U.S. that Morocco does not have as much of is the cultural diversity. I love that most of my friends come from different races and religions that I do and that many of them speak other languages at home with their families. I also like that even those of us who were born and raised in the U.S. have different heritages and that we have those to share with one another. Speaking from my own upbringing in San Jose, I really love that aspect of the U.S. and really miss it sometimes in Morocco because this society is much more homogeneous than America.

The thing I love about Morocco that I have not seen much of America is the spirit of fraternity and sisterhood that floods the streets. No matter where I go here, there is always someone who treats me like a member of their family and wants to befriend me. There have been times where I have been far away from my home here in different cities and there are always gracious people to help me more than necessary in a spirit of love. The hospitality of strangers here blows my mind because I've never seen anything like it. More times than I can count, I've been invited into a family's home for tea or lunch and had that be the first time I met them. Once it was even the mayor of a major city!

Ryan asked me if I like LA or Morocco better.

Ryan, I firmly believe that Disneyland truly is the happiest place on earth. If they built a Disneyland Morocco, then I would more seriously explore this question.

Scott asked me where I live in Morocco.

For security reasons, I am unable to name the specific town on the internet. However, Mrs. McKee knows all about my town. I live in Errachidia region, which is just south of the Atlas Mountains and also the beginning of the Sahara Desert.

Ashley and Alex asked me what I like to do for fun in Morocco.

It really depends on where I’m at, guys. In my town, I like exercising, reading and visiting with family and friends. When I am not here, I really just love exploring the new places I get to experience here. This is really an opportunity for me to get to know Morocco in a way that not many other foreigners have and so I love making the most of it!

Emma asked me about some of my hobbies.

Learning Arabic is challenging, but also very intellectually stimulating and fun. It’s really amazing what learning other languages does for your view of the world. Charlemagne said that knowing a second language is like having a second soul and there are no better words to describe how I feel about the new relationships I have because of learning a new language.

Madelyn asked me how Spain is different than the U.S.

I will actually go to Spain twice this year, I hope, and look forward to exploring those differences myself. I have some initial impressions, but I’ll wait to see what I find when I get there.

Wren asked me about what I find most interesting about Morocco.

I love studying the history of Judaism in Morocco because its story is one of cohabitation of peace with Muslims. Judaism actually arrived in Morocco before Islam and has been here since Morocco was an Ancient Roman colony. In 1492, when Spain expelled its Jewish population, many Jewish refugees chose to settle in Morocco. In today’s world, I think these are the types of examples that need to be magnified.

Eshan, George and Fernando asked me what Morocco is like.

Awesome, dudes! You guys should come.

Danny asked me what the nightlife is like in Morocco.

Definitely depends on where you are, Danny. I know when I’ve been in bigger cities like Marrakech and El Jadida I find it fun to hang around large markets and public squares where they sell food and go browsing with friends. Here in my town, a fun evening activity can be going to a local cafĂ© and watching Champions League soccer. During Ramadan, when people are fasting, the whole town is bumpin’ at night, which is fun for a little while, although I find it a bit noisy for my taste.

Lawra asked me why I decided to go to Morocco in the first place.

When I interviewed with Peace Corps, I told them I wanted to live in a Muslim country because I wanted to learn more about Islam. I am interested in interfaith dialogue because I think it is so desperately needed in our world. I think Islam is grossly misunderstood in the U.S. and wanted to be able to help educate Americans on the awesomeness of Muslims. I also knew living in a Muslim country as homogeneous as Morocco would allow me to be the first “different” person many of my youth have met which would give them a rare opportunity to forge an intercultural friendship, something we take for granted in America. My final choice was between Thailand and Morocco (two incredible countries) and I am happy with the choice I made. 

Emma and Becker asked about the number of languages there are in Morocco.

The two national languages are Standard Arabic and Tamazight. French is recognized as an official language and is the primarily taught foreign language here, but English will probably replace it very soon. On the streets, it is most common to hear Darija and various dialects of Tamazight (depending on the region).

Noland and Philip asked me if there are cartels in Morocco.

Yes, they operate in the northern portion of the country in the Rif Mountains. Cannabis is grown there and exported to Europe. Morocco’s northern cost is also the transit point of drugs from South America making their way into the European market. It is too dangerous for Peace Corps to send volunteers to live in those communities.

Abby asked me if Morocco has Starbucks.

Yes, Abby! However, they are only located in large cities that see lots of tourists. I have drunken Stabucks in a train station in Casablanca, the Morocco Mall (also in Casablanca) and also near the mall in Marrakech. They write your name in Arabic when you order a cup of coffee—I think that’s just great!

Garrett asked me if I have seen any tourists in the town I live in.

We have tourists come here sometimes because they come to our region to go camel trekking in Merzouga. 

Matthew asked me what my favorite color is.

Green, Matthew!

Austin asked what I do when I’m not helping people.

Receiving help from other people, Austin. There is no shortage of things I need help with from community members every day.

Zachary asked me if there are any separatists in Morocco.

Yes, Zachary. In the Sahara region, there is the Polisario Front, sponsored by the Algerian government, fighting for a Western Sahara that is independent of Morocco. Morocco considers the Sahara to be part of their country and governs it as such.

Cathal asked me what my involvement is with Peace Corps’ work in Morocco.

Great question, Cathal! I am a youth development worker assigned to work in the youth center in my town. I also do work with an association in a nearby village and facilitate activities at the high school. My two biggest projects of this year have been a week-long “Peace Camp” that we organized at the high school (see my previous blog post for a blerb about that) and working with a local association to start an Arabic-language children’s library at this rural village. Day to day, I teach classes in the youth center and this association. Currently, I teach four English classes and help facilitate a Peace Club and Theatre Club with Moroccan counterparts. Does that give you a good idea? If not, I am sure I can talk with your class more about my work here.

Patrick asked me if sports are popular in Morocco.

Very much so, Patrick! In my town, people enjoy aerobics, basketball, bike-riding, hiking, running, soccer, weightlifting and I am sure much more. I have noticed that the people of my current town are much more physically active then in Sidi Kacem, my training site. A major challenge facing Morocco is increasing opportunities for women to participate in sports. The obesity rate amongst women is much higher than that of men. I usually see men involved in the aforementioned activities much more than women.

Delaney asked me what the biggest conflict in Morocco is.

This disagreement with Polisario and the Algerian government over governance of the Saharan territory is without question the biggest conflict here.

Kissel asked me what it is like being an American in Morocco.

Morocco and the U.S. have been allies for all of our country’s history. Morocco was the first country to recognize American independence after the Revolutionary War. The U.S. also aids this kingdom much in its counterterrorism efforts, which are the best in the region. Also, the U.S. is very active in development work here (obviously, Peace Corps’ presence here gives testament to that). Moroccans know the American government is very friendly to their country and so are actually very loving of Americans and the U.S. in general.

Sunday, February 14, 2016

2016 is Off and Running!

Hello dear world!

Since I shared my last blog post with you all, I celebrated the holiday season with my family back in San Jose and completed the biggest project of my first year of service shortly after returning back here to Morocco. December-February has been a truly busy and yet blessed time.

To begin with, the holiday season home with family and friends was wonderful. I went eleven months without seeing my parents and made the most of my two weeks back in the states spending quality time at home with them. I also had the opportunity to catch up with some of my best friends from high school who are all doing awesome things in grad school and the world of work. Shortly before New Year’s, our family held an open house for our extended family and close friends and it was a wonderful opportunity for me to enjoy their company and answer all of their very interesting questions about my new life. 

Something unique I had an opportunity to do while back in the good ol’ USA that many of my colleagues in Peace Corps unfortunately did not have was watch Star Wars Episode VII: The Force Awakens (twice!) with my parents, who had actually given me the original trilogy for Christmas when I was in kindergarden. My favorite memory from my time back home was being able to discuss fan theories about the film with my parents and best friends (at the same time!). We're all in on the Rey is Luke's daughter theory. I think Kylo Ren will return to the light side and defeat (or at least contribute to defeating) Darth Plagueis. Lastly, the ewoks will return in the form of a massive, furry and light-saber wielding army to the likes the galaxy has never seen (ok, forgive me for this last one).

When the time came for me to return to Morocco, I felt much stronger emotionally than I had when I left to go home. As some of you remember, I was going through a bit of a difficult time last November-December for personal reasons having nothing to do with my Peace Corps service. Having the opportunity to be surrounded by the people who love me most in life was the best medicine I could have asked for. I do remember feeling a bit sentimental, which I think is healthy, while sitting at the San Francisco Airport on January 2nd and focusing my eyes back and forth between a college football bowl game and the beautiful hills that lay aside the 87 freeway.

Upon setting foot in Morocco, my mind was focused on one thing and one thing only: Peace Camp. This is a project that had been my main priority for months and that demanded much attention due to a few factors such as there being a grant involved (which I was responsible for managing—something I never thought I'd do at such a young age) and me having to communicate the majority of my logistical information in Darija with institutions in my town that had not partnered with Peace Corps in development work before. Thanks to one great volunteer team and committed participants who really wanted to benefit from the program we offered during their school break, the camp was a resounding success. As the manager of the project, the fact that it logistically worked out has left me with so much joy giving these students an opportunity that I didn’t even have in high school. This was, without question, one of the busiest weeks of my life.


Now what was Peace Camp?

We organized a weeklong camp for high school students in my town to be held at their high school (an incredible venue) centered on the themes of peace and development. Their sessions focused on the Model United Nations program, conflict resolution, leadership, a painting project of the world, team-building through sports, idea sharing and human rights. They all had so much fun that many of them would actually show up early for camp sessions, which meant everything was nearly always on-schedule!
Left: Brahim, a local youth, leading the participants in one of many selfies.













Left: Students watching a Ted Talks session at the Idea Sharing Session!












Left: My friend Awatif delivering her speech about the value of a university education for young women at the idea sharing session. She killed it!

Left: Volunteers Anooj, Majid and Mustapha with some of our awesome participants!
Left: Brahim taking another selfie with Mustapha, Wafa, Youssef, Simo and Souad. They all helped lead the Model UN simulation of the General Assembly.

Left: Volunteer Painters Nadia and Youssef "peacing" out with the campers at their mural!












There are indeed many more pictures to share, but I think y'all get the gist of it. This was a fun experience!

Once Peace Camp ended, I immediately went to Errachidia to pick up the second shipment of books for the Arabic children's library project my counterpart and I are doing in a small village outside my town. The work that association has done to have a bookshelf built and promote the library to youth has been extremely impressive.


Above: The beginning to our new Arabic children's library project!


After this, I have just been busy continuing my program at the youth center and also updating it a little bit based on a better understanding on my part of how things run in my town. I have been in communication with multiple volunteers about working with them on some very big projects each of them are planning and so my schedule for the spring is actually extremely packed and intense when factoring these in addition to my work at the youth center. I am really excited for what lies ahead though and I think that I will look back on my first year of service with a great deal of pride in my own work at our Mid-Service training in May if I can keep up the good work.

Until next time—bslama!